Out-island,
pre-cambrian fragment
set
adrift from Greenland 1,800 million years ago
Craggy
landmass
grey,
green and russet
rocky
heights, moorland and bracken …
lying
on the rim of a vast ocean, a tiny treasure
From
the ferry deck,
Slipping
away on the starboard side, Hebridean Mull
Jura
to port
on
the south-west horizon, a grey smudge of land
separated
from the sea by a mist,
Colonsay
hovers
We
dock, the ferry dwarfs the quayside at Scalasaig,
a
simple place
one
general store, a café, community hall
grey
and white houses dotted around the hillside,
the
kirk, perched on a rocky mound
On
a sunshine-bathed May day
blue
skies are washed clean by North Atlantic winds,
fresh
from Newfoundland
Waves
crash on Colonsay beaches
lap
and run over white sand, golden sand,
sand
the colour of putty
sea
spray over rocks covered in almond-green lichen
orange
and saffron yellow
seashells,
limpets, electric blue-ray limpets
seaweeds,
ruby red, mustard, pink and brown, green sea lettuce
Beyond
Ardskenish peninsula, grey seals bask on rocks
two
sea otters play
tumble,
whirl and swirl in crystal waters,
up
and over a jutting rock
oyster
catchers pipe, and the wild winnowing sound of the curlew, borne away on the
wind
A
necklace of treasures strewn along the Plaide Mhor tideline
sunshine
yellow whelks and ginger coloured periwinkles, Littorina fabalis,
lavender
corals and strings of chocolate-brown bootlace seaweed
and
where the rocks meet the sea
sugar-pink
cushions of sea thrift, succulent stonecrop and butter-yellow tormentil
powder-blue
spring squill, Scilla verna – ‘a
lover of wild places where the wind beats the cliffs with sea spray’
Inland,
around the sapphire waters of Loch Fada
larks,
ascend to deliver their twenty minute repertoire
The
rare, elusive corncrake stalks through long grass and rushes, its call, a
fingernail running across the top of a comb.
Along
moorland edges, spotted wood butterflies, green-veined white,
multi-coloured
peacock, and orange tip
cologne
fragrance of bog myrtle mixed with warm wafts of spicy coconut from prickly
gorse
A
feast of foraged foods
mussels,
navy blue shells hidden and clamped to kelp-clad rocks,
wild
mint and watercress, purple-flowered creeping thyme
pine-green
watercress, wild garlic, land cress, dandelion and stinging nettle
salad-flowers
of primrose, violet, pink purslane, and daisy
Wild flower honey and botanical-rich island gin
through
woodlands of pine, sycamore, beech and oak
where
wild-hyacinth heady bluebells bloom,
across
moorland heather
and
along primrose-studded grassy banks, tracks, and pathways
Lime-green rosettes of butterwort nestle in damp mossy grass,
its
violet-coloured carnivorous flower not yet ready to lure a passing insect,
early
purple orchids, thyme-leaved speedwell, dog violets
Colonsay
yellows of shining celandine, flag iris, gorse, kingcup and primrose
frilly
bogbean and gold bird’s foot trefoil, tinged with red
a
background to the liquid song of the blackcap,
a
single bleat in the distance, as a sheep calls her lamb
a
timeless sound
an
old wild billy goat, rambling solo around the moorland
his
ancestors shipwrecked here with the Spanish Armada
At intervals throughout the day, the reconnaissance flights of a pair of noisy grey lag geese,
passing low over tree tops
hen
harrier, fine wide wings glide over last summer’s heather,
overhead
a hawk poised, focused on its prey below, and beyond
the
peewit call of lapwing who, with blunt black and white wings, dip and swoop in
one accord
studded
with marsh marigold, and lady’s smock,
reed
warblers cling to individual stems of last year’s plant;
as
the wind passes through the straw-coloured stems they bend and cross in mesmeric,
shifting patterns
musky
American skunk cabbage with exotic lemon-yellow arums
giant
gunnera, unfurl from tight cello-head buds,
to
leaves of gigantic proportions,
black
stems and chocolate-purple flowers of Pittosporum
tenuifolium
magenta
candelabra primula, grow wild and free, self-seeded over the decades
rich
mahogany red bark of myrtle and carpets of fallen fleshy pink magnolia petals lie
alongside skeletons of last year’s leaves
Colonsay’s tiny sibling, its history outweighs its size
Prisoners of the Napoleonic Wars built a network of dark grey dry stone walls,
up and over Mesolithic middens,
left by ancestors who dined on oysters and hazelnuts
In
1353 John of Islay, Lord of the Isles worshipped here
Oransay’s
14th century priory dedicated to St Columba,
its
cloisters now open to the sky, the ghost-chants and prayers reverberate around
ancient crumbling walls
The
Oronsay Cross stands tall and proud, adorned by the Crucifixion and
entwining
leaves which budded and were green in 1510 AD
On
May Day, my first swallow of the year, swooped over the Priory ruins
In
the island’s north, soaring over the craggy heights of Balnahard
a
golden eagle, whose ancestors
bore
witness to who was lain in a moss-clad cist grave
five
thousand years ago
Pagan
and Christian worshippers fashioned a life here
In summer the visitor numbers swell
The ferry spews off extra traffic and people.
Walkers, birdwatchers, backpackers, artists, tourists, cyclists,
Hebridean island-hoppers
returning visitors, armed with binoculars, cameras and sketchbooks.
They come to have a look, to discover, to rediscover
to find peace in the landscape, as we do, to breathe the Atlantic air
Late summer and early autumn
the palette changes
sunlight shifts to soft gold
the craggy hills are covered in heather
the colours of Scotland, tweeds and knitwear
soft purple and bracken
Visiting in early autumn and I reflect.
What would this tiny island be like in winter,
at the mercy of the weather,
icy blasts sweeping down from the Arctic
and across the North Atlantic.
Short days, long hours of darkness,
a small community
adrift
Easy to romanticise the roaring fires,
hearty stews,
wee nips of whisky
to keep the spirits up
But I would give it a go, just to be here
Almost mid September and still the swallows swoop and swish
They do not want to leave either.
As the ferry pulls away from the pier
the foaming trail left by the vessel
stretches out behind us.
That's my trail.
As Scalasaig becomes a distant, small collection of buildings
I feel myself being dragged away,
pulled and prized away.
The world offers endless holiday destinations
but that craggy outline, diminishing into the distance, keeps calling me back.
I know now where the wild apple mint grows
where the bees fill their honeycomb
where bluebells bloom either side of a grassy track
and where I might, just might, see otters play.
Colonsay is enough for me, and more
What would this tiny island be like in winter,
at the mercy of the weather,
icy blasts sweeping down from the Arctic
and across the North Atlantic.
Short days, long hours of darkness,
a small community
adrift
Easy to romanticise the roaring fires,
hearty stews,
wee nips of whisky
to keep the spirits up
But I would give it a go, just to be here
Almost mid September and still the swallows swoop and swish
They do not want to leave either.
As the ferry pulls away from the pier
the foaming trail left by the vessel
stretches out behind us.
That's my trail.
As Scalasaig becomes a distant, small collection of buildings
I feel myself being dragged away,
pulled and prized away.
The world offers endless holiday destinations
but that craggy outline, diminishing into the distance, keeps calling me back.
I know now where the wild apple mint grows
where the bees fill their honeycomb
where bluebells bloom either side of a grassy track
and where I might, just might, see otters play.
Colonsay is enough for me, and more
And I shall return to wander its shores again.
ReplyDeleteTimeless beauty that sings to my soul.
Sorry couldn't help myself...what a beautiful piece of poetry.... really very good. Fantastic xxx